Friday, August 10, 2007

Family Holidays II - Boating!

When the hectic pace of caravan life got too much (or rather, the journey to and from caravan life; which normally entailed a journey along gridlocked motorways and endless traffic jams before ending in wanderings back and forth along countless tiny country lanes, trying to find a caravan park in the gathering gloom, a feat of geographical location that would today require a GPS or eight, a compass, a 1:1 OS landranger map and a dowsing rod), my parents decided instead on boating holidays.

Why spend hours stuck in traffic looking at the car in front and listening to the sound of crab-paste sandwiches exploding in the heat in the boot when you could drive up the road to where your boat was and then, at a steady 4mph, take a week to get to a nearby town you could reach by car in half an hour?

The difference lay in the journey being the centre of the pleasure rather than something to be dreaded and endured in equal measure and in pride of ownership. Or rather, pride of ownaboat, as my folk had invested in a 22 foot Dawncraft cabin cruiser.

Banish from your imagination the sleek speedboats on steroids bobbing in the harbour at Monte Carlo, or the picturesque narrowboats favoured by Rosie & Jim. Instead, the designers had taken a caravan and put a hull on it. But because they were boat builders, the result was a thing of beauty. Every line and detail as perfect. The only issue was the box-like superstructure. A great benefit because it meant our lanky family could stand up straight when below decks without concussion being a regular feature of life, a drawback because when the wind got up it acted like a spinnaker. Handy if you wanted the boat to move sideways at great speed, but not much use otherwise.

There was no better feeling than pottering along at a stately pace while seeing the world rush past you on either side of the riverbank. The only deadline was what time you wanted to moor for the evening.

Given the opportuinities for al-fresco abluting, it was remarkable that the boat had its own loo - perhaps the designers realised just how much tea is drunk (a lot!) on boating holidays.

The self contained chemical toilet was both a blessing and a curse. A blessing because you were not reliant upon thick bushes to dodge behind or upon public loos, the use of which involved queuing behind poofs and perverts before rejecting the plague pit on offer as unsuitable, a curse because it was, well, chemical.

Chemical in a bad way, like ‘spill’ or ‘Ali’. The thing was basically two sections. A lower container/receptacle that you filled with this blue chemical soup to break down, er, whatever went in, and a top section with a seat and flush unit and so on. A miracle of engineering really.

Christ alone knows what was in the blue soup. The perverted science of the Nazis and the latrines of Mordor combined would be hard pressed to come up with an equivalent. I suspect that if you were to try and manufacture stuff like that today you’d have Hans Blix kicking in your door before you could rinse your test tubes out.

That said, whatever I did to the loo, it still smelled pine fresh.

The real bugger was emptying the thing out. Whenever I see chaps on teevee handling plutonium, I think they look careless compared to the hapless crewmember who was on handling duties. You had to disengage the lower section, make sure the join was sealed and then carry it to an emptying sanitation station, which were dotted up and down the river. Simply emptying it over the side was not an option, as the trail of dead marine life that resulted would lead the authorities straight to you.

So you’d make your way over the side of the boat handling what was basically a small samsonite suitcase sized container full of sloshing liquid - the least offensive component of which was human waste. God alone knows what would happen if any of the stuff splashed on you, but I suspect that apart from making you want to shower for a week, it would have an effect either like the Alien’s blood did on the Nostromo, or just make you look like the Wicked Witch of the West in a power shower.

The attractions of boating were many. For some adults it seemed like the principle attraction was the ability to drink at all hours and still be in charge of a large vessel. The riverside is liberally provide for with pubs, all with landing stages. Partly because boats tied up make the pub look pretty and partly because sailors are drinkers. For those stretches of river between pubs, you took along crates of your own alcohol.

In the evening, tied up, one would secure some string to the neck of your wine bottle and heave it over the side to cool in the river. The serious drinkers had so many lines over the side their boats looked like trawlers.

Students liked hire boats too. They were relatively cheap and gave a sense of responsibility. In my early teens, I recall that the river in summer was populated by narrowboats full of young people, the girls lying on the top of the boat, soaking up the sun like gorgeous tanned lizards on a rock, while the boys manned the tiller and thought about sex in a narrow bunk with their bronzed girlfriend that evening.

Every boat, including ours, had a ghetto blaster providing the soundtrack to the day. I recall early exposure to music beyond the mainstream, waiting to lock up, from the boat next to us came the lyric ‘Jesus Christ…come on down!’ and then a crescendo of drums and guitars. This then, was alternative music.

The rest of the family all went over the side at least once. This was usually because some arse-hole who didn’t know how to boat properly had either hit us or was just about to but there was one occasion when an aunt, showing tremendous athleticism, untied a mooring line from the bank and jumped onto the boat as it moved away from the bank. The problem was the line snagged on the bank and she was attempting to make a three foot jump holding two foot of line. She hung in the air for a moment like Wyle E Coyote before entering the Severn with a splash.

I suppose you’re not a real boater until you’ve been hauled out of the drink with a boat hook through your collar.

Other incidents included engine trouble in our first season meaning that every time we throttled down the motor stopped - great fun if you are approaching a lock - always situated next to a weir, as well as my one foray into model making while shut in an unventilated cabin and getting high as a kite on glue.

Looking back on those holidays now, lying on my back on the aft deck, making my way through a fantasy novel as thick as a brick, it all seems impossibly halcyon. Oddly, family photographs of the time just confirm this image, it really was that hot and sunny all the time - either that or the exposure on the film was off.

It must have been good though, I didn’t even begrudge the winter chorse of washing, sanding and varnishing the hull when the boat was hauled out of the water for winter - lying under a boat in a boatyard, with cold water running down your arm from your upraised hand as you washed the underside of the boat and prepped it for varnishing. I guess it was the first time I was treated like an adult and actually felt like one too. Either that, or I just liked tea.

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